Taking Better Winter Photos
How to Photograph Snow, Ice, Frost, Winter Sports, Sunsets and More
Feb 6, 2009
The obvious thing to photograph in the winter is, of course, snow. The best time to shoot it is just after the snowfall. Not only is the snow on the ground still mostly untouched, but it also hasn't been Optimally the sky shouldn't be too cloudy – bright blues generate swept off the trees by the wind, making for more iconic scenery; a wonderful contrast to the whites.
Besides forests, parks and gardens, good places to photograph snowy scenery include golf courses, cemeteries, industrial areas and railroads. Just about anything from statues to trailer parks tends to look surreal when covered in snow. Bright-colored details in the middle of the whiteness tend to catch the viewer's attention. Are there any interesting footprints or paths?
Frost and ice are also highly photogenic. Frost makes for peculiar looking scenery with muted colors, but ice looks even better in macros with the crystals visible. When the spring is coming, the snow sometimes melts to reveal stunning formations of ice.
Other Good Winter Photography Ideas
Just like at any time of the year, the light and time of the day are crucial for getting photos that aren't just nice and pretty, but truly breath-taking. Snow just doesn't look so good on a dull, overcast day.
Sunsets tend to be particularly gorgeous in cold temperatures, because the ice crystals in the air reflect light and produce rich, vibrant colors. The best light for photography is said to be 15-30 minutes before and after sunset. Aim for the before sunset part, so you can fit in some beautiful white scenery instead of just the usual silhouettes.
And don't forget the winter sports! Skiing may not be that photogenic (unless sports photography is what you enjoy), but iceskating can make for lovely pictures, and sledging children provide material for funny action shots if you get the timing right, especially if you can capture some splashes of snow.
Winter Photography Gear
Pretty much any camera, even the cheapest point-and-shoots and mobile cameras, tend to produce great result outdoors in bright daylight (though low-end models are more prone to overeposure).
Most modern digital cameras can expose snow just fine, but on a very bright day you might want to underexpose a bit to avoid burning out the highlights. Many cameras have a feature where you can check whether a picture is too overexposed, displaying such areas as blinking. Using the lowest possible ISO value helps minimize overeposure.
With DSLRs almost any lens works fine. A wide-angle lens or a fish-eye can be used to produce wicked perspectives of things like snow-covered trees. A macro lens is great for capturing frosty details, though most point-and-shoots can take good macros too. Circular polarizer filters are good for achieving rich, deep blue skies.
Protecting from Cold
Cameras and memory cards usually tolerate freezing temperatures well - it's the batteries that on't. It depends widely on the model, but in general you can expect greatly shortened battery life. To get around this, keep spare batteries in a pocket close to your body, where they keep warm.
It is also important to keep you, the photographer, warm as well. Photography tends to be quite stationary, so you need much warmer clothes than for a brisk walk outside. Many cameras, especially DSLRs, can be operated surprisingly well even with mittens on, but you might consider getting a pair of gloves with open fingertips. Some brands are sold as "iPod gloves".
See Also
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